Nakatsukeikoku Yunomori

Staying at Yunomori

For us, Yunomori worked especially well as a base for visiting both Nakatsu Gorge and Yasui Gorge. The location is peaceful, the rooms look straight out over the river, and the baths are only a short walk downstairs.

The lobby has a few quiet seating areas facing the river and a small shop with local crafts. The staff mainly speak Japanese, but they were kind and patient, so the language barrier never felt like a problem.

Traditional riverside rooms

The main building has four Japanese-style rooms. There are also two standalone cottages higher up the hill, but we were happy to stay in the main building. It was more affordable, and much more convenient: the restaurant and lobby are nearby, and the baths are just two flights of stairs below.

The rooms are simple and traditional, with tatami mats, a low table, and two chairs set by the window. The best part is the view. Each room in the main building overlooks the rushing Nakatsu River, so you hear the water all the time.

The staff also leaves fresh tea and local sweets in the room each day, which was a small but lovely touch.

Soaking in the open-air onsen

One of the nicest things about Yunomori is that it has an outdoor bath, which is not something you find everywhere in this remote area.

Day visitors can use the baths too, but staying overnight means you can go later in the day, when everything is much quieter. There is an indoor bath, an outdoor bath, a small sauna, and a cold water pool. The cold pool was surprisingly refreshing between soaks.

One thing to know: the women’s outdoor bath is a bit more enclosed for privacy, so the forest view is more limited. It still feels good to sit outside in the fresh air, though.

Breakfast and dinner

We booked a breakfast-only stay instead of half board. That gave us more flexibility, and we could still eat dinner at the on-site restaurant by ordering à la carte.

Breakfast was a traditional Japanese set meal with fish, soup, rice, and seasonal vegetables. It was nicely presented, and there was also good coffee and dessert, which we appreciated.

For dinner, you do need to order in advance. If you are staying on a breakfast-only plan, the staff will ask you earlier in the day what you would like to eat. Walk-ins without a pre-ordered meal are not really possible.

Also good to know: dinner is served as soon as you sit down. If you like to have a beer or a quiet drink before eating, it is better to do that in your room or in the lounge first.

Nearby stops

For an easy lunch or desert, about 5 km from Yunomori, along the main road, you will pass Tea Cafe Asunaro. the terrace offers a picturesque view overlooking the Niyodo River from a high vantage point. The matcha desserts were delightful.

Odo Dam is close by as well. During our visit the musum was closed, but you can still park the car and walk across the dam to the other side, and walk further up to the park.

The nearby Odo Dam Bridge is also worth a quick look. Its red structure reminded us a little of the Golden Gate Bridge, but set among mountains and forest.