Sushi Yajima Omakase in Tokyo

I first read about Yajima in Tom Downey's blog post The Ten Commandments of Sushi. The article impressed me so much that visiting became my top priority on my next trip to Japan.

We booked lunch through our hotel. The reply was blunt: "Yes, you can come, but no chatting, just eating." We knew what that meant — lunch runs about half an hour before the next guests arrive, so there's no time for small talk. This is a place to eat sushi, and as Downey advises, you eat each piece the moment it lands on your plate, while the fish is at its freshest.

It's also where I learned you can eat sushi with your hands and skip the chopsticks. No sauces are added — each piece is complete as served. Just eat it whole, in one bite.

Order some sake; it pairs beautifully with the sushi and elevates the whole experience. Mr. Taisho will tell you when to pair a particular piece with a sip.

Lunch is 13 pieces of sushi, served one after another, plus a rolled omelette, a bowl of clear soup, a trio of sushi rolls, and a small dessert — for 4,500 yen. A genuine bargain given the quality. As with most sushi restaurants, lunch is significantly cheaper than dinner, so go at midday if you can. The selection changes with the season and availability.

Worth setting expectations: this isn't a polished, top-notch omakase experience. It's an elderly couple doing their best to make a living running a sushi restaurant in Tokyo — not a slick, high-margin operation. What you get is good, honest sushi in a relaxed, fast-paced setting, not a refined performance. If you're after ceremony and theater, look elsewhere; if you want simple, fresh, unpretentious sushi, this is it.

The couple who run the restaurant are warm and welcoming. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the wife — who speaks some English and loves Belgian chocolate — often jokes with guests. Bring her a small gift if you want to make an impression.

The restaurant is underground (B1) with only 8 seats, so reservations are essential.

Better to pay in cash — there's a surcharge for credit card payments.