Tsuru no Yu ryokan in Nyuto Onsen

Setting

Tsuru no yu is the oldest of the seven ryokans that make up Nyuto Onsen, a group of hot spring inns tucked into a remote valley in Akita prefecture. The name means "hot water of the crane," after a story of a wounded crane once seen bathing in the spring. We stayed here for one night, far from any town, in a setting that still looks much like it must have centuries ago.

Situated in a remote mountain area with no other buildings around, the onsen sits against a hill, with a small river running along the opposite side.

Onsen

There are 3 gender-separated onsen and 1 mixed-gender rotenburo. The 2 outdoor rotenburos stand out: the water is highly alkaline and sulphuric, with a faint sulphur smell, and has a milky white colour and texture. Take off all jewellery before getting in.

Honjin rooms 本陣

We stayed in the oldest part of the complex, the Honjin (本陣), the row of rooms visible in the picture. Only 5 rooms make up this section, so you need availability or an early reservation. A Honjin room for 2 people, 1 night, with dinner and breakfast included, costs around 19,740 yen. Dinner is served in the room itself, and staff will ask for your preferred serving time in advance.

Food

We visited in mid-April and early May, and both times the meals centred on mountain vegetables: a stew with baked rice, mushrooms, beef, and vegetables, served alongside 2 river fish grilled over a small pit in the room. Their house-made sake is inexpensive for the quality, and you can keep the bottle as a souvenir. After dinner, staff make up the bed while you're out at the baths.