Hikes & walks
Mt. Karakunidake hike in Kirishima
韓国岳
The tallest peak in the Kirishima range, with the best view of Shinmoedake's active crater.
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Hikes & walks
Takachihonomine hike in Kirishima
高千穂峰
A ridge walk across volcanic terrain steeped in Japanese creation myth.
Ryokans and onsen
Ryokojin Sanso in Kirishima Onsen
旅行人山荘
A forest ryokan on a hill above Maruo Onsen, with private outdoor baths bookable by the hour.
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Michinoku Coastal Trail: hiking the rebuilt coast of Tohoku
みちのく潮風トレイル
A thousand kilometres of coastline, rebuilt after disaster.
Kengo Kuma's architecture in Yusuhara
A hidden gem in Kochi's mountains
Kengo Kuma is one of Japan’s best-known contemporary architects, and Yusuhara is a remote mountain town in Kochi with an unexpected cluster of his wooden public buildings.
Japan essentials
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Dormy Inn: the best value onsen hotel chain in Japan
The sweet spot between affordable and a proper onsen: Dormy Inn is the chain I keep coming back to.
Cheap coffee in Japan: conbini is your best bet
Skip the coffee shop — conbini coffee is just as good for a fraction of the price.
Free and cheap bike rental in Japan
Free or near-free bike rental is available in more Japanese cities than you might expect.