Kurokawa Onsen Okunoyu

Kurokawa Onsen town

Kurokawa Onsen sits in the middle of Kyushu, tucked away among forested hills — 20 km from Aso town and 15 km from the Kuju mountains, which makes it a good base for exploring both.

Its remote setting and well-regarded ryokans have made it one of the more visited onsen towns in Kyushu, drawing both Japanese and international travelers. Despite that, it doesn't feel overrun — ryokans are spread out through the forest, and most of what we did there felt private rather than crowded.

The town sells an onsen-hopping card good for 3 visits to participating facilities, for 1,500 yen — a good way to try different baths without committing to an overnight stay at each. We used ours at Hosantei, one of the pricier ryokans in town, for an open-air bath beside a small river — quiet, with just the sound of running water.

Okunoyu

We picked Okunoyu for its well-regarded rotenburos and kitchen, and it lived up to that reputation. Our room was Japanese-style, with futon beds and a view over the forest — simple, clean, and comfortable.

Outdoor baths

The open-air baths were the highlight of the stay. Between the indoor onsen and the outdoor baths there's even an old wooden Turkish-style bath. Outside, there are three baths — two smaller ones and one mixed — all set among trees and a river, away from any road or neighboring ryokan.

Breakfast and dinner

Both breakfast and dinner were Kaiseki-style, served in a large room facing the garden. Okunoyu is also one of the few ryokans we've stayed at that offers homemade marmalade, yoghurt, and muesli at breakfast alongside the traditional dishes.

Ryokans in Kurokawa Onsen

Kurokawa Onsen has a wide choice of ryokans, most built in wood with large stone rotenburos set among the surrounding forest. Picking one comes down to personal preference more than any clear best option.

Staying here isn't cheap. A mid-range ryokan costs around 270 euros a night for two people with half-board included; the more expensive ones start at 400 euros. It's now also possible to stay without breakfast or dinner, though that takes away from the traditional ryokan experience. We compromised: skipped dinner the first night and took half-board on the second.