Yama no Hotel Musoen

An onsen hotel above Yufuin

Yama no Hotel Musōen (山のホテル 夢想園) sits above Yufuin in Yufu, Oita, with views across the valley to the twin peaks of Mount Yufu. Its rooms are divided among three buildings linked by paths through the grounds, which keeps the hotel quiet even when it is busy.

We stayed in April 2023, planning to climb Mount Yufu, but bad weather cancelled the hike. We returned to Yufuin in 2025 and completed the climb, staying elsewhere. That second visit confirmed Musoen would still be our choice.

Rooms in the Yuyamatei annex

We stayed in a traditional room in the Yuyamatei annex, with two connected six-tatami rooms that can be divided by sliding fusuma doors. Tatami, low tables, dark wood and a hanging scroll give it an old-fashioned feel.

The best feature was the small private terrace, with wooden benches overlooking the greenery, perfect for sipping the locally brewed Yufuin beer in the late afternoon. Musoen also has simpler twin rooms and newer rooms with private open-air baths, but we would choose a terrace room again.

Open-air baths facing Mount Yufu

The baths are the main reason to stay. They face across the valley to Mount Yufu, giving us the best view of the mountain on that trip. The women’s open-air bath, Kukai-no-yu, is one of the largest in the area, while the men’s side has two open-air baths.

Kaiseki dinner and Japanese breakfast

Dinner and breakfast were served in a quiet four-table restaurant with a wide window over the trees. The multi-course kaiseki dinner was carefully prepared and served with good local sake.

Breakfast was a traditional Japanese spread of rice, miso soup, grilled fish and small side dishes. Service was attentive without being stiff.

Yufuin and Mount Yufu

On that 2023 visit, we walked through Yufuin to Kinrin Lake and along the riverbeds, where cherry blossom and rapeseed lined the water. The town, baths and dinner made Musoen a good base even without the climb.

Musoen is expensive, but we would choose it again for a quiet onsen stay close to both Yufuin and Mount Yufu.