Hikes & walks
Akiyoshidai Chōjagamori walk
長者ヶ森
A 5.6 km loop over the three northern summits of Akiyoshidai, Japan’s largest karst plateau.
Hikes & walks
長者ヶ森
A 5.6 km loop over the three northern summits of Akiyoshidai, Japan’s largest karst plateau.
Hikes & walks
龍護峰
A 13 km loop over the south-west of Akiyoshidai to Mount Ryūgohō, the high point of Japan’s largest karst plateau.
Hikes & walks
平尾台
A walk across Hiraodai, the karst plateau above Kitakyushu, over open grassland scattered with thousands of white limestone rocks.
Hikes & walks
由布岳
Mount Yufu is the twin-peaked cone that defines the Yufuin skyline, and reaching its East Peak is a demanding, full-day climb. It is a serious effort, but this is a great mountain and well worth it.
Ryokans & onsen
油谷湾温泉 ホテル楊貴館
A medium-sized hot-spring hotel on a rise above Yuya Bay in Nagato, Yamaguchi, with open-air baths set at the edge of the water.
Ryokans & onsen
天宿の杜 桂月
A small ryokan on a wooded hill in Mine, Yamaguchi, where every room has its own open-air hot-spring bath.
Ryokans & onsen
大谷山荘
An upscale riverside ryokan in Nagato Yumoto Onsen, with polished service, large shared baths and unusually good dining.
Ryokans & onsen
九重星生ホテル
A quiet mountain hotel in Aso-Kuju National Park with panoramic rooms, a tunnel-connected open-air onsen, careful kaiseki meals and easy access to Chojabaru and the Mount Mimata trailhead.
みちのく潮風トレイル
A thousand kilometres of coastline, rebuilt after disaster.
A library, town hall, hotel and bridge gallery in one small mountain town
ドーミーインホテル
The sweet spot between affordable and a proper onsen: Dormy Inn is the chain I keep coming back to.
Skip the coffee shop — conbini coffee is just as good for a fraction of the price.
A warm lunch or early supper when other options are unavailable.