Ryokans and onsen
Kurokawa Onsen Okunoyu
黒川温泉 奥の湯
A traditional ryokan stay in Kurokawa Onsen, with stone rotenburo baths tucked into the forest.
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Hikes & walks
Nakadake and Kuju mountain range hike from Makinoto pass
くじゅう連山
Open ridges, sweeping peak views and mountains that glow with colour.
Hikes & walks
Mt. Aso's Eboshidake and Kishimadake hike
阿蘇山-烏帽子岳-杵島岳
Two easy hikes up Eboshidake and Kishimadake, with the active Nakadake crater rumbling close by.
Ryokans and onsen
Aso Plaza Hotel
阿蘇プラザホテル
A no-frills base for hiking Mount Aso and the Kuju Mountains
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Michinoku Coastal Trail: hiking the rebuilt coast of Tohoku
みちのく潮風トレイル
A thousand kilometres of coastline, rebuilt after disaster.
Kengo Kuma's architecture in Yusuhara
A hidden gem in Kochi's mountains
Kengo Kuma is one of Japan’s best-known contemporary architects, and Yusuhara is a remote mountain town in Kochi with an unexpected cluster of his wooden public buildings.
Japan essentials
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Dormy Inn: the best value onsen hotel chain in Japan
The sweet spot between affordable and a proper onsen: Dormy Inn is the chain I keep coming back to.
Cheap coffee in Japan: conbini is your best bet
Skip the coffee shop — conbini coffee is just as good for a fraction of the price.
Free and cheap bike rental in Japan
Free or near-free bike rental is available in more Japanese cities than you might expect.